Hell's Market

Fresh markets, also known as wet markets in many parts of Asia, are the beating heart of Bangkok, feeding every single ‘artery’ of the intricate Asian metropolis. Food arrives at the markets from farms on the outskirts of the city, where it is processed and prepared for distribution to retailers and vendors in the city, providing a vital livelihood for the local population. Thais used to see markets as places for everyday business. But over the years they have come to represent so much more; they have become part of Thailand’s indelible cultural heritage. In fact, markets are not just places to buy food. They are an integral part of the identity and values of the Thai people, and a centre for many social occasions, such as sharing precious moments with family and friends, all of which make you feel welcome there.Despite the vast number of street markets, no two are alike. In fact, some of them are extremely authentic or simply ‘human’.

The Khlong Toei market is located in the district of the same name, an area of Bangkok notorious for its slums and poverty. This huge concrete area of about 14 square kilometres is home to the city’s most controversial market. This is not the typical place where tourists go in search of stunning scenery or to buy the latest exotic souvenir: the people here are local and speak only Burmese, Lao, Karen and Thai, but no English.The Port Authority of Thailand has tried several times to take it away from the locals to demolish illegal houses and build private apartments, but the Khlong Toei community has resisted and refused to leave their homes.This area is reminiscent of the struggles of the Red Shirt protests in 2010, when barracks were burned down and gunmen hid in the streets of the market ready to shoot people, but the residents resisted and succeeded.Even during the pandemic, the market continued to operate, kept open by independent and competing vendors who needed to make money and feed their families.

Through it all, Khlong Toei remained intact and the market is still open 24 hours a day.
It is estimated that it provides direct or indirect employment for at least one million people and, most importantly, sells goods at affordable prices.
With more than 24 poultry stalls, it is also the largest market specialising in the sale of live and freshly slaughtered birds, mainly chickens, ducks and geese.

If you eat meat in Bangkok, it is likely to come from Khlong Toei.